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Jul 7, 2010

Sample for test fit - Burdastyle Book - Project dress

I chose pattern size 32 as that had shoulders which fit on me.

Should have done full bust adjustment.. anyway learning process..

There is stress at bust point
Excuse unwaxed armpit. Side seam seems fine 1/4 added would give the necessary ease

Center Back at HPS (neckpoint) is gaping and i pinched 1/2 inch on each side. 

First time ever i had to use seam ripper to open the seam stitches to remove the dress. I was stuck in it for 2 minutes or so.. ... lesson learnt never put side seam zipper for close neck (close fitting dress). I am unable to find long length invisible zipper, hence used sideseam, will use normal zipper at back itself rather than getting stuck!

Lessons learnt
  • Never put side seam zipper for close cut neckline dress (NEVER ). I somehow squeezed in but had to rip the seams to get off the dress
  • Try doing full bust adjustment of 1/8th or 2/8th on both middle and side front pieces
  • Reduce Bodice height by 6/8 inch and also the point where skirt starts lower by 6/8th inch
  • Or just reduce 1/4 inch from bodice and attach skirt as available (Circumference at this line is 26 inches with ease)
  • Remove from side front and mid front joining seam at starting poing (ie., armhole ) 2/8 inch.
  • Center Back slash 1/2 inch from HPS to dart edge starting point in lower back bodice.
  • Back neck depth can be lowered by another 3 inches
  • Front neck depth increase by 1 inch at curve at C.F , but retain the total length uptil key hole; reshape keyhole
  • Now draft shoulderline princess seam draft and make a fit ensemble
  • Remember to not go by seam allowances at sides given in instruction and use standard rule of 1 1/4 inch to play with.....

Please wish me best of luck, i need them most, this dress is expanding my horizons at all verticals.....



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