Saree Blouse - Bust Darts - Measurements

I had received mail from one of the readers with this query
how to measure  dart for saree blouse for  ripcage?For eg:this is my bust size. ~bust40 w. 34 ~ H.42~ back waist length  is 16.5 .can you s how me hoe get the bust dart please 




Thought of sharing it on the Adithis Amma Sews as it will help other readers as well


the things we need to know while marking out darts on front of the blouse are 


Main darts  width (center dart width)
Armhole dart measurements
Buttonside dart measurements




Let us first discuss about main darts

 Now let us see the armhole darts,

Now let us see the Button side darts,

For this reader based on her bust size (40 inches)

the dart measurements would be as follows

Center dart

X-O = 3.5inches

A-B= 3.0 inches

O-C = 3.0 inches

Armhole Dart

M-N= 1 inch

Length of armhole dart = 4.5 inches

Between C & L distance should be 2.5 inches

Button side dart 

Length = 2.5 inches

width = 1 inch (E-F)

Stitch the dart lines as straight lines to get perfect shape. Too much space between C & L will not give a perfect bust mound shape, so take care , make a test fit and alter measurements a little bit  by 1/4 inch give or take depending on your custom fit. 

Hope this post was of help to the reader. 

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Saree Blouse Drafting - Tweaks & Tricks

Dear Readers,

I have been receiving queries relating to Saree Blouse Drafting, ever since i posted the Saree Blouse Draft Tutorial, many queries relate to Shoulder Width and armhole depth for dis-proportionate body measurements. The basic draft would work as such for a dress form with proportionate body measurement, when we make them for us less mortals with disproportionate body measurements, we need to tweak it a little, i would like to share some which i have learnt the hard way (Read after making a lot of ill-fitting blouses !!)


Lets first see the shoulders,


For Ladies with Narrow shoulders (petite ones like me! < 15"; actually i am just 13" )
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round /6) as it is or  add 1/2" if required


For people with broad shoulders (15" & above)
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round / 6) + 3/4"

The Standard Back Neck Depth would be Bust Round / 12. The above measurements are for standard back neck depth. If you make even deeper / closer neck then you will have to reduce it by 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose your neck depth is 6" then, 
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder - 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose you keep high back neck of say 2" inches only then,
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder + 1/2 inch

For the problem of cleavage getting shown while you bend and also to ensure that shoulder lies flat at the shoulder point on the neck side and does not lift up and reveal your bra strap, please look at the picture below (forgive me for such bad drawing, i am still learning ropes in photoshop)

Do you find these useful, are u gals interested in seeing more such tweaks, if so please let me know, i would like to get some feedback before i proceed further in this series of Tweaks & Tricks regarding Saree Blouse Cutting...

Saree Blouse Sewing/Stitching Tutorial

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Saree Blouse FRONT

Saree Blouse BACK

Hope you already have the pattern ready, if not please check Saree Blouse Pattern Drafting Tutorial

Lets see Saree Blouse Stitching / Sewing Instructions in the form of a Picture tutorial.

Finished blouse with the Saree

For more tutorials Click HERE

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Saree Blouse Pattern Draft 1 - Enjoy

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Online Teaching takes a new meaning with all those Tutorials floating online for free. Here is another one from AdithisAmmaSews

Pattern making softwares, go ... take a break! 

Saree Blouse Pattern Draft

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I am working on Saree Blouse draft, i have 2 versions of it, of which i am sharing one version which my dear Friend Vidhya  (She has taken a break from blogging due to personal reasons ...) generously drafted and scanned and sent it across for me, i am kind of busy with Deepavali + DD's Birthday preparations (read : shopping , shopping & shopping)

This draft though did not give me exact fit (but it has for her, so if you have proportionate body then it works, mine is petite so i always worth with the other draft, which i am yet to scan, will post it soon)
Try the above draft with cheap cloth or muslin, check fit, make necessary alterations and try it with fashion fabric.

For those of you who do are not aware of how to sew a blouse, fret not, here is the Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction
i will sew atleast 2 blouses this weekend for my Deepavali collection (one for sis , talking about my sister, she suffers from acid reflux disease, does anyone know cure for it, as in what diet helps;  one blouse for self hopefully) so will do a picture tutorial on the sewing part alongside it....


Have finished Pattu Paavadai & Sattai , will post it along with Draft 2moro hopefully,

The past 3-4 days did not have much of 'Blogosphere' time for me, trust me i will compensate more than enough with Blouse and Pattu Paavadai Sattai Draft to name a few

Please do leave feedback, tutorials take lot of time to make, so your feedback is the tonic / motivation to do it.... 

Cut Choli Blouse (Saree Blouse with 3 darts) Draft

Saree Blouse - Back Draft

Saree Blouse Front Draft

Note: the points 23 - 24 is for hook extension and have been wrongly placed on side seam, it should rather be on neck side or can be omitted and a separate piece can be used as shown in Saree Blouse Sewing Tutorial

Note First line is a typo error, it should be 15 instead of 14! Thanks Betsy for pointing it out!

SLEEVE DRAFT

Add SEAM Allowances to all the above drafts as desired

PLEASE NOTE THE ALTERATION PAGE 

Note in the box in the Alteration page below, there is a typo error: it should be 1/3 bust and NOT 1/2 bust as is written there. Thanks Thendral for raising the doubt... 

Also make note of few alterations you can try ... in case the draft requires any alterations for you.... especially if you have broad shoulder & narrow bust or vice-versa... Check Saree Blouse Draft Tweaks & Tricks post for further details

Best of luck, do give the feedback as to if this draft worked for you, in any case i will be uploading Draft 2 later, Draft 2 is the one i use (it fits & works for my sister, MIL, mom & self ...so it all runs in the family ...) 

Once you ready with the pattern draft, check out Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction and make yourself a Saree Blouse... take care...

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