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Jan 29, 2011

Saree Blouse Drafting - Tweaks & Tricks

Dear Readers,

I have been receiving queries relating to Saree Blouse Drafting, ever since i posted the Saree Blouse Draft Tutorial, many queries relate to Shoulder Width and armhole depth for dis-proportionate body measurements. The basic draft would work as such for a dress form with proportionate body measurement, when we make them for us less mortals with disproportionate body measurements, we need to tweak it a little, i would like to share some which i have learnt the hard way (Read after making a lot of ill-fitting blouses !!)

Lets first see the shoulders,

For Ladies with Narrow shoulders (petite ones like me! < 15"; actually i am just 13" )
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round /6) as it is or  add 1/2" if required

For people with broad shoulders (15" & above)
Half Shoulder = (Bust Round / 6) + 3/4"

The Standard Back Neck Depth would be Bust Round / 12. The above measurements are for standard back neck depth. If you make even deeper / closer neck then you will have to reduce it by 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose your neck depth is 6" then, 
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder - 1/2 inch

For e.g.,Suppose you keep high back neck of say 2" inches only then,
Half Shoulder = Half Shoulder + 1/2 inch

For the problem of cleavage getting shown while you bend and also to ensure that shoulder lies flat at the shoulder point on the neck side and does not lift up and reveal your bra strap, please look at the picture below (forgive me for such bad drawing, i am still learning ropes in photoshop)

Do you find these useful, are u gals interested in seeing more such tweaks, if so please let me know, i would like to get some feedback before i proceed further in this series of Tweaks & Tricks regarding Saree Blouse Cutting...



  1. I have just discovered your blog and love it! The tutorials are very inspiring, thank you for sharing your experience! Greetings from Germany, Isabella

  2. Thanks Isabella,

    Glad you find my blog useful. I would be elated if you happen to follow my blog.

  3. :) U just won it..

  4. Thanks Shruthi, i have replied to your post on your blog. This is the first time i have ever won a giveaway! Thanks a ton!

  5. plz post how to do piping nd finish blouse neck part

  6. Hi,
    Thanks for blouse correction details looking forward to more.
    By the way can we apply the same rule to Kameez as well?

  7. Hare Krishna! Thank you for that useful tip! Greetings from Brampton, Canada.

  8. plz tell me where i should mark to cut patti part for blouse.i mean front length..
    i'm not getting where to cut for front length.

  9. I am so happy to see ur tutorial so well explained. My interest in sewing blouse has recently developed.can u please guide me why my blouse pushes from the back having problem in shoulder and cleavage setting .the diagram in tweaks and tricks could not be well understtod by me.kindly help me out as early as possible
    Eagerly wainting to cut my next blouse properly

  10. i canot also under stand what you are saying in tweaks and tricks .i am also having the same problem .the shoulder is coming downwards in front side. please help me.

  11. i am also having the same shoulder problem.the shoulder comes down ward in the front part.i can 'ot understand the diagram tweaks and tricks clearly. please help me.

  12. Hi Lakshmi, May I know the type of the shoulder slop that we see in ready made kurtas in which the front shoulder is shroter than the back and the back shoulder is extended to the front say 1/2". Can you show the draftin also Pls!


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