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Oct 31, 2010

Saree Blouse Pattern Draft 1 - Enjoy

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Saree Blouse Pattern Draft

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I am working on Saree Blouse draft, i have 2 versions of it, of which i am sharing one version which my dear Friend Vidhya  (She has taken a break from blogging due to personal reasons ...) generously drafted and scanned and sent it across for me, i am kind of busy with Deepavali + DD's Birthday preparations (read : shopping , shopping & shopping)

This draft though did not give me exact fit (but it has for her, so if you have proportionate body then it works, mine is petite so i always worth with the other draft, which i am yet to scan, will post it soon)
Try the above draft with cheap cloth or muslin, check fit, make necessary alterations and try it with fashion fabric.

For those of you who do are not aware of how to sew a blouse, fret not, here is the Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction
i will sew atleast 2 blouses this weekend for my Deepavali collection (one for sis , talking about my sister, she suffers from acid reflux disease, does anyone know cure for it, as in what diet helps;  one blouse for self hopefully) so will do a picture tutorial on the sewing part alongside it....

Have finished Pattu Paavadai & Sattai , will post it along with Draft 2moro hopefully,

The past 3-4 days did not have much of 'Blogosphere' time for me, trust me i will compensate more than enough with Blouse and Pattu Paavadai Sattai Draft to name a few

Please do leave feedback, tutorials take lot of time to make, so your feedback is the tonic / motivation to do it.... 

Cut Choli Blouse (Saree Blouse with 3 darts) Draft

Saree Blouse - Back Draft

Saree Blouse Front Draft

Note: the points 23 - 24 is for hook extension and have been wrongly placed on side seam, it should rather be on neck side or can be omitted and a separate piece can be used as shown in Saree Blouse Sewing Tutorial

Note First line is a typo error, it should be 15 instead of 14! Thanks Betsy for pointing it out!


Add SEAM Allowances to all the above drafts as desired


Note in the box in the Alteration page below, there is a typo error: it should be 1/3 bust and NOT 1/2 bust as is written there. Thanks Thendral for raising the doubt... 

Also make note of few alterations you can try ... in case the draft requires any alterations for you.... especially if you have broad shoulder & narrow bust or vice-versa... Check Saree Blouse Draft Tweaks & Tricks post for further details

Best of luck, do give the feedback as to if this draft worked for you, in any case i will be uploading Draft 2 later, Draft 2 is the one i use (it fits & works for my sister, MIL, mom & self it all runs in the family ...) 

Once you ready with the pattern draft, check out Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction and make yourself a Saree Blouse... take care...

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  1. Hi, Thank you for your comments.
    I apperciate the hard work you have given here. I have two things to be cleared.
    one thing is the formula... 1/2 bust + 1 and the example it is 1/3 bust+1.I want to know the correct one.

    Is s-s is the shoulder measurement?


  2. can you please be specific, as to where it is 1/2 bust + 1, i searched and found only 1/3 bust + 1. Please let me know which step and on which draft front or back or sleeve, so that i can clarify. Feel free to clarify any doubts you have regarding thsi draft

  3. What a beautiful blouse!
    I'm so sorry but I had to remove your link from Brag Monday. My linky party is just for projects made using images from my site. If you make something in the future, using one of my images, we would love to have you join us then!

  4. look at page no.5, given in a box...

  5. It is a typo error; it should be 1/3 bust and not 1/2 bust. In the example explained immediately after that it states 1/3 which is correct.

    This formula needs to be applied and checked if body measurements are not proportionate, like broad shoulders & narrow chest etc.,

    Will try to rescan after correcting it..thanks for pointing it out.

  6. Too bad you don't live near me, I could really use some help with my saree blouse. Mom got it stitched in India, but they did not do it right, so now I am short 4 inches, lol. I just recently wore a saree for the first time, and LOVE THEM. I am so happy to have found your blog, and all your wonderful tutorials. I am your newest follower, and since I found you at a link party, I know you participate in them. COnsider joining mine too **Amaze me AUgust** I would love to have you, and I love all things Indian, including the food, so please share ANYTIME. Thanks so much!!! Bella :)

  7. Hi
    Your blog is wonderful for beginners, I am a beginner...I have doubts first scanned page last line what does it say? also second scan page 14 to 13 but 13 is in dart n 14 arm hole curve point

  8. Last line on first page says

    17-16 - Neck Depth D.O.S (Depends on Style)

    On Second Page

    the line is wrong
    it should be

    14 is 1/2 inch outside of point 7 from the line 16-7. This is for back armhole

    Thanks for pointing out the flaws. Will try to correct the page and upload it again.

  9. Hi,
    Only one suggestion why dont you just type it rather than scan details reg drawing you can scan as you type you will catch any mistake n your post will be flawless


  10. Hi is seam allowance already included in the pattern?

  11. Seam allowance needs to be added. Please see the last line on the sleeve page.

  12. If i am not using shoulder slope of 3/4th inch i should decrease my arm hole depth by 3/4th inch.

    Is that right?

  13. thanks .it has come out very nice. with practise will improve. Can you give us choli cut( katori )blouse drafting , as well as how to stitch readymade dhoti .thanks inadvance.

  14. Thanks Mangal, Katori Blouse draft is available here

    Yes Rajani, you would need to adjust armhole depth based on how much to reduce or increase the Shoulder Slope.

  15. Hi, can you please post the pattern block for these saree blouses?


  16. HI..Thanks for putting this up..I have a question..How do you make the tie at the back (the string) which is made up from the fabric of the same sari? I need to make my own and am not that great at sewing but if I know how much material to make and what to do..I will try and do it myself. I would really appreciate a response soon as I have to wear this sari..thank you!!!

  17. Hi... I check your blog daily for new posts. I searched all over the internet for a saree blouse tutorial a couple of years back. Gr8 to finally see one. Thanks a lot. But I seem to be missing a few pieces.

    1. I don't see any mention of the belt part in the pattern.
    2. Is the point 15 in the front draft measured the same as 14 in back draft?
    3. No mention of points 23 and 24. Is this included in the measurement of 5-2 and 4-3? or is it extra 1/2"?
    4. How do you get points 3a and 3b from the point 4 for the sleeve?

    Sorry for all the issues, but I would love to sew my own blouse and cannot seem to figure this out.


  18. Hi Betsy,

    Thanks for bringing up this doubt. I realized i had not put Belt Draft, now i have added the same

    Redrafting the sleeve draft, hope it is more clear now.

    The front blouse draft instruction continuation was mistyped as back draft continuations, and hence the confusion, i have rectified the same.

    Please do check the draft from the start once again and revert back to me in case you have any further doubts / queries.

    Hope i was able to clear your doubts. Feel free to ping me again.


  19. Thanks for the prompt reply, and the belt and sleeve draft. Will try to stitch a blouse today and see how it turns out.

    Just one more typo that I found. In the front blouse draft, it is point 15 and not 14 for the armhole. So point 15 would be 1/2" outside point 7 and the front armhole would be shaped around 4,15,13(not marked),9. Is that right?

    Also, shouldn't the points 23 and 24 be on the neck side of the front draft for the hook extension?

    Just a suggestion.... if you typed out the instructions as part of your blog post rather than scan them as images, then it would be easier to correct any mistakes or typos.

    Keep up the gr8 work. God bless!

  20. You are welcome betty and thanks for pointing out yet another silly mistake in the draft! Yup the points 23 and 24 should actually be on the neck side of the front draft for hook extension on 1 piece if desired, or else can be left out and separate piece can be added as explained in the Saree Blouse Sewing Tutorial!

    Yup 14 n place of 15 was a typo!

  21. Hi mam, thanks for a wonderful tutorial... its great! just one doubt.. U have said the seam allowance has to be what does the +1/2" and +1" in the draft represent? are they not the seam allowances?

    Thanks in advance....

  22. Hi

    I was wondering how you could take measurements from an already existing blouse instead of the person. Can you advice please?

    Thank you


  23. Can I have the diagrams and the method of cut choli blouse with three darts tutorials.


  24. Hi

    One small doubt in the front pattern. 13 and 14 are not marked, but from the description can understand 13 is the midpoint of 9 and 8, but what is the measurement between 13 and 14?
    Thanks and looking forward for ur reply.


  25. that's something great, i am in a town, where nothing works for my wife. I thought of doing it myself for her. And I must thank you for having in simple ways to go ahead. Ofcourse, i will comeout with my experiences later.

  26. I came accross your blog and as i was reading I also read about your sister. I would like to suggest her to have a cup of boiled sweet corn when symptoms show up. Also taking water not immediately after food but after an hour of having food also helps. This worked for my husband and is fine from the last few years(4-5).

    Coming to the blog you are wonderful. I've been to your blog long ago before this. Whenever I tried to search anything Your blog always show up(very helpful). I'm a newbie or i can say just still investigating on patterns but I still do not have any hands on experience. I could not gather courage yet to run my scissors through the cloth. Your patterns are really helpful even for beginners. They woo me to get started. Thank you.

  27. Thanks Hussain.

    Thanks syndicaterajagopalan

  28. i want to learn sewing help me

  29. For acid reflux ask her to avoid All varieties of chilli including powdered chilli and capsicum or jalapenos,Methi/fenugreek, Dals of all sorts including peas and chana or at least limit her intake of these. Hussain has rightly mentioned about the "drink water 1 hour later" suggestion. Its not a rule but it really does help.
    Tell her to start her day with weak ginger tea and if she is of normal weight she can take 2-4 Marie Biscuits, Underweight- 2-4 Goodday Biscuits or Overweight- 2-4 Cream Crackers. She should ideally take her food warm/cool and not hot. The same applies to tea and any beverages she takes. She should do this for a week and in all probability she will notice her acid reflux.

    PS: I am not a doctor/nutritionist but I have studied Applied nutrition and have a keen interest in the subject.

  30. hi,

    my back length of blouse is 14-1/2 inch and front length including patti comes around 17 inch...Please tell me how to adjust both front and back length my bust size is 38 c or should i increase the cup size...if yes...please tell me measurement for darts to increase the cup dize

  31. hi rajani good work. i'm happy learning to sew saree blouse. please let me know why u have ommitted the dart on dides which is there on blouse.

  32. Hello,

    Thanx. I have stitched blouse earlier using paper cutting made by my mother. I altered it after I became a bit fat and also wanted slightly low back. But my attempt resulted in bad blouses. Now I followed ur instructions and stitched a blouse which is almost perfect. Specifically armhole to sleeve joined part is wrinkle free. My own draft always caused wrinkles there (both in front and back).
    But in ur draft, the sleeve cuttings did not work for me. I used my draft for sleeve. From 1-2 : 1/8 of bust : this would be 4.25 for 34". (34/8=4.25). This seems to be more. Well I am not an expert. Another problem is the points x, 3 are not shown in the figure. So could not follow. Even then with this draft I made a paper cutting but it could not fit my arm. Size was less. Another 1.5" was required to fit me. Please suggest for this.

    Overall blouse fits comfortably. Thanx for this draft. I have added 1" extra as additional allowance to accomadate stitching and gain in weight.


  33. Hi, whenever I make deep neck blouse the shoulder seam keep slipping from the normal can you tell me what could be cause of it and I don like to use string at the back

  34. For deep necks you need to adjust the shoulder slope as well as tuck in the shoulder width as required. Please refer to saree blouse tweak and tricks post for more details on the same

  35. thanks.
    ur draft is simple n easy for beginners.but i have some doubts:
    first is for the front draft , is it 15is 1/2" outside 7 or is it 8 and where is no.14?
    secondly what is the armhole dart width. its not visible there.

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  38. Thank you for this wonderful pattern.

    This was my first real garment that I've made, and drafting the pattern was also new for me.

    Like Roshni Jee, I could not see the darts in the "Blouse Front Draft Continued" picture. I made the darts 1/2" each total, which seemed to work. I was able to devise the front hook & eye panels from the stitching up tutorial. Mine needed to be a little wider than what I think would be normally called for. Also, in addition to the hook and eye panels missing from this tutorial, also missing is the neckline interfacing pattern - It would be nice to have that here in the instructions, because it really finishes the garment nicely.

    I think I made a mistake in adding seam allowances when drawing the pattern - it would have been less confusing overall to follow your instructions and do the seam allowances as the last step. I thought that this pattern would be really big on me, but actually it is pretty tight, which is the fit I wanted. It still allows free range of movement, and is comfortable to wear.

    The choli fit me beautifully. Here are photos:

    Thank you again for sharing this wonderful pattern.

  39. Good to know that the draft was useful to you. So glad you shared the finished pics.

    Armhole dart is 1/2 only with 1/4 inch on each dart leg.

  40. Thanks much it is really helpful for me and u explained super way

  41. the draft is really very useful. do u have any book on draft on saree blouses and salwar suits


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