Anarkali Tutorial - Enjoy!

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Pattern making softwares take a break! Here is another hand-drafted pattern from Adithis Amma Sews

P.S. Though i hand drafted it and scanned, some problem with scan settings and it was very light imprint and hence add to darken it using Photoshop. Hope it is clear, in case you have any visibility problems in any of the steps please do let me know, i will try to fix it.

Coming to sleeves, will do a separate tute on drafting and sewing Short Chinese Lantern sleeve later.

STEP 1: 

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Featured on One Pretty Thing!

I know you saw this only about a week back, but i had to revisit this because.... guess what ... this has been featured on One Pretty Thing..... my first feature..... now i have this feeling of having really arrived on blogosphere... with little tid bits of one's knowledge really reaching out to people... god bless.

Basket Wire Bird - give it a try!



Oh i am so excited....

Cowl Neck Drafting Tutorial - Vote for it to get it

Hello Everyone! Hope this post finds you all in good health and great spirit. At last the time has come for me to sit down and do the tutorial on how to draft cowl neck using basic bodice.

In fact i have drafted the tutorial and its midnight and since i don't have a scanner i have to wait until tomorrow to get it scanned. So lets play a game. I would like to know as to whether this tutorial would be useful to many.

You can ensure that Cowl Neck Tutorial sees the light at the end of the Tunnel someday.

Choose any of the following 

• Please Leave a comment saying may be even as simple as YES or NO to the tutorial. Better
• PLEASE SPEAK UP !!!
• Better Still follow my blog so that you will get notified as & when a tutorial or technique gets posted.

Please DO NOT THINK Iam forcing my blog down your throat. My blog does not even have Adsense, so i am not doing this for money. All i want is encouraging words and the comforting feeling that there are indeed people who are finding the stuff i post on my blog to useful in their life someway or the other.

All you would need is a fitting basic bodice or any top pattern with waist dart in it. If it has more than one dart then please close them and include the excess in a single dart itself. French darts are also allowed in basic pattern to be used for drafting cowl neck pattern.


Cowls are the folded effect creating by allowing fabric to fall from what looks like a bias triangle. Cowls look good when cut in flowy fabrics, light weight like chiffon, silk, soft knits.

Cowls are either plain cowls are pleated cowls. The tutorial i will be covering will deal with plain cowls.

Plain Cowl                                                                                                        Pleated Cowl

Cowls can also be used as design element in Armhole, sleeves, skirts and even pants. I have tried them in skirts and pants and they have come out fine. Yet to try it in on sleeves, that's up on my To Do List (LONG LIST) for sometime now, hopefully will be done in near future.

Though draping is an easy way to make cowls, constructing using flat pattern techniques are equally good and gives perfect Cowl.

Once you have a perfect fitting beautifully draping cowl, its very easy to sew with its built-in facing. So Enjoy!

Please leave some feedback, even if it is like saying 'Your Blog is Stupid' (Please for god's sake don't say that, i just gave an example, my heart would break otherwise!), I would at least know what you feel about this blog and especially this tutorials as i spent almost 2 hours at least for a tutorial (drafting ones) and for sewing it is almost an entire day. It takes only a minute to give your comments and suggestions, fair enough deal isn't it....PLEASE LEAVE FEEDBACK AND COMMENTS.

Angrakha - Sewing Tutorial

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Online Teaching takes a new meaning with all those Tutorials floating online for free. Here is one from AdithisAmmaSews

I know its been 2 days since the promised date, since my DD fell ill (she is recovering,is lot better 2day, she has an ear infection and severe cold) could'nt spend time away from her, especially with the system

Please find the photo tutorial for stitching the same, since i din't have anyone to assist me in shooting the video, i had kept the handycam at all vantage positions and shot the sewing video, but it has lot of unwanted footage of me testing if it's recording and so on, need to edit, will do in a day or two, till then i guess this picture tutorial is useful. Actually i prefer this one after assembling it together as i think video tute is shoddy due to shooting it by self.

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Please leave your feedback in comments. It is highly appreciated. Thanks


Step 1: Actually this step belongs to pattern drafting and not sewing, the lazy goose that i am preferred to do the last step of pattern drafting directly on cloth instead of making another paper draft. Actually i had little fabric as well, so it only helped as i knew exactly how much i can spread all those slashes on the angrakha wrap part draft

Step  2: 
Prepare Neck Facings : Cut 2 piece each of neck facing and interface one piece, stitch right sides together and the outer seams, press seams and turn

Step 3: Stitch the facings to respective pieces and turn them

Step 4: Stitch front & back darts as is applicable in your base draft and also on Angrakha part if you have them in your base front pattern (Note only bust dart on Angrakha part no waist darts as we are adding flare to it)

Step 5: Stiching shoulder seams.

Note:  Attach front shoulder with the angrakha piece shoulder; Wrong side of angrakha on top of right side of Front Left Shoulder. Sorry forgot to take a pic of this, hope you are able to visualize as only when you add the Angrakha draft with the front piece will we able to get the front part of the outfit complete.

Step 6: Attach Sleeves (if you want)

Step 7: Attach Ties to the Angrakha Piece

For the ties, cut bias pieces / rectangular pieces (about 3/4 inch, fold in half and stitch a seam, turn to right side

Step 7: Pin and Stich Side seams

Step 8: Turn over and your. Put on your Angrakha and mark the tie position on the front piece, it is better if this is done after wearing it, so that you can mark the position where you need the ties as per your comfort.

Stitch the ties to the front piece. 

I have added ties using the following link 

How to make Tassel

Step 9: Finish Hem. I have used rolled hem or Peco. 

Wear your Angrakha and Flaunt it.

More tutorials found here

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Tutorial - Angrakha Pattern Drafting Part I

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Online Teaching takes a new meaning with all those Tutorials floating online for free. Here is one from AdithisAmmaSews

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Angrakha_Pattern_Drafting_Tutorial

Iam glad to have got back to posting tutorial. Please feel free to leave your feedback in comments so that it will help in iron out flaws if any and also make it better in future and also would motivate me to do share more of pattern drafting expeditions. In case if you any doubts, please raise the same and i would be glad to sort them out.

Today we shall see part I of Angrakha Tutorial. This would involve drafting the Angrakha part.

You will Need

• Shift Dress / Kameez Draft - as base
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Scissor
• Cellophane Tape
• Pattern Paper ( I normally use newspaper to draft patterns, RECYCLE!)

STEP 1: Trace the basic draft you have either Shift Dress / Kameez Draft with Paper on Fold

STEP 2 : Mark Bust Point

STEP 3: Mark 1 Inch from Bust Point (Approximately, depends on how curvy you are i am size 34 and it suits fine with me, increase or decrease  1 inch as required) from the Bust Point. Name it as B.

From HPS (See pic - High Position Shoulder point) mark a point perpendicular to Point B and name it as C

STEP 4: Draw the neckline for the angrakha from HPS to Point C and then finish the wrap seamline from C , crossing through point B upto Point D. 

P.S: Point D can be any distance as desired from the fold line 

Step 5:  To get the flared effect as the case is with the Angrakha i drafted for my sister, follow the steps 5, 6 & 7 or else you can retain the draft got from Step 4 as the Angrakha draft. 

(How to use it and sew with the base pattern and where to place ties we shall see in Part II of the tutorial)

Step 6: Cut along the slashed lines; Paste or anchor the pattern with Cellophane tape at HPS and spread the slashed lines to desired width,remember the flare fold will be half of what you get to spread, i.e., if you spread for 2 inches, then the flare will be 1 inch deep. Spread and paste to anchor it; do likewise for all slashed lines

Step 7:  Retrace the spread out pattern all through. 

P.S. Did you notice hemline is slightly longer than the actual slashed piece ends, this is to compensate for the folds that you end with somewhere at where the slash lines end. These folds will reduce the height a bit when they fold in, hence we add to the hemline as is required 

Now that we have the draft ready, how to integrate it with base draft and sew the same with ties will be dealt with in Part II, which i promise to post next week.  So please draft the same and keep it ready.

In case for those who can manage to sew yourselves, see below for steps to do

1. Cut 1 piece from the above drafter angrakha piece
2. Cut your front pieces and back pieces of the base pattern (Shift dress / kameez draft) as usual
3. Finish necklines; sew darts as is in base pattern
4. Attach Angrakha piece to front piece at shoulders with right side of front piece underlying the wrong side of angrakha piece (as you would for a mock-wrap dress)
5. Sew shoulders of front and back pieces together
6. Finish facings
7. Attach sleeves if you have them in your pattern or finish sleeveless draft (I have used  3/4 sleeve with a slit in my version)
8. Stitch side seams 
9. Finish with rolled hem 

If you find the above steps unclear or overwhelming, fret not i promise to deliver the acutal assembling part and sewing by next week. - Here it is: Angrakha Sewing Tutorial

Tomorrow is Gokulashtami (Birthday of Lord Krishna) and i have a busy day ahead as we have to prepare culniary delights to be presented to Lord. Hmm yummy seedai, murukku and so & so.... i am drooling. I also plan to dress up my daughter (as i do every year during Janmashtami aka Gokulashtami ), the past 3 years she has dressed up as Lord Krishna himself, this time let's see if she obliges....

More Tutorials can be found here

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