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Aug 31, 2010

Tutorial - Angrakha Pattern Drafting Part I

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Iam glad to have got back to posting tutorial. Please feel free to leave your feedback in comments so that it will help in iron out flaws if any and also make it better in future and also would motivate me to do share more of pattern drafting expeditions. In case if you any doubts, please raise the same and i would be glad to sort them out.

Today we shall see part I of Angrakha Tutorial. This would involve drafting the Angrakha part.

You will Need
  • Shift Dress / Kameez Draft - as base
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Scissor
  • Cellophane Tape
  • Pattern Paper ( I normally use newspaper to draft patterns, RECYCLE!)
STEP 1: Trace the basic draft you have either Shift Dress / Kameez Draft with Paper on Fold
STEP 2 : Mark Bust Point

STEP 3: Mark 1 Inch from Bust Point (Approximately, depends on how curvy you are i am size 34 and it suits fine with me, increase or decrease  1 inch as required) from the Bust Point. Name it as B.
From HPS (See pic - High Position Shoulder point) mark a point perpendicular to Point B and name it as C

STEP 4: Draw the neckline for the angrakha from HPS to Point C and then finish the wrap seamline from C , crossing through point B upto Point D. 

P.S: Point D can be any distance as desired from the fold line 

Step 5:  To get the flared effect as the case is with the Angrakha i drafted for my sister, follow the steps 5, 6 & 7 or else you can retain the draft got from Step 4 as the Angrakha draft
(How to use it and sew with the base pattern and where to place ties we shall see in Part II of the tutorial)

Step 6: Cut along the slashed lines; Paste or anchor the pattern with Cellophane tape at HPS and spread the slashed lines to desired width,remember the flare fold will be half of what you get to spread, i.e., if you spread for 2 inches, then the flare will be 1 inch deep. Spread and paste to anchor it; do likewise for all slashed lines

Step 7:  Retrace the spread out pattern all through. 
P.S. Did you notice hemline is slightly longer than the actual slashed piece ends, this is to compensate for the folds that you end with somewhere at where the slash lines end. These folds will reduce the height a bit when they fold in, hence we add to the hemline as is required 

Now that we have the draft ready, how to integrate it with base draft and sew the same with ties will be dealt with in Part II, which i promise to post next week.  So please draft the same and keep it ready.

In case for those who can manage to sew yourselves, see below for steps to do

  1. Cut 1 piece from the above drafter angrakha piece
  2. Cut your front pieces and back pieces of the base pattern (Shift dress / kameez draft) as usual
  3. Finish necklines; sew darts as is in base pattern
  4. Attach Angrakha piece to front piece at shoulders with right side of front piece underlying the wrong side of angrakha piece (as you would for a mock-wrap dress)
  5. Sew shoulders of front and back pieces together
  6. Finish facings
  7. Attach sleeves if you have them in your pattern or finish sleeveless draft (I have used  3/4 sleeve with a slit in my version)
  8. Stitch side seams 
  9. Finish with rolled hem 

If you find the above steps unclear or overwhelming, fret not i promise to deliver the acutal assembling part and sewing by next week. - Here it is: Angrakha Sewing Tutorial

Tomorrow is Gokulashtami (Birthday of Lord Krishna) and i have a busy day ahead as we have to prepare culniary delights to be presented to Lord. Hmm yummy seedai, murukku and so & so.... i am drooling. I also plan to dress up my daughter (as i do every year during Janmashtami aka Gokulashtami ), the past 3 years she has dressed up as Lord Krishna himself, this time let's see if she obliges....

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  1. I'm so excited about this tutorial! I plan to make myself some tops once I finish sewing fall clothes for my daughter. What type of fabric did you use?

  2. I am glad u liked the tutorial. Will be more clear when i post the part II of the tute next week.

    Any free flowing fabric will suit this style of outfit. I had used crushed georgette in both of my Angrakhas so far.

  3. Hi, I am happy with the tutorial. One thing I want to get cleared... Do you cut the angrakha part on bias?

  4. Glad you liked the tutorial.

    Bias is not required. You can cut the angrakha part on straight grain itself. Since we have splash and spread and the flare is only from wasit downwards, it will flow and drape fine.

    Making it on Bias may prove wrong if the fabric stretches too much as remember we have to attach ties and the pressure will fall on areas where it is tied.

    Thanks for bringing up this question, i forgot to add grainline direction in the final angrakha draft. Will modify the pic and post again

  5. You make this look so easy, I want to make one for myself now.

  6. Hi I like the pattern! stylish look. Can you pls tell how to sew the border over the slanting side of the neck. I am planning to sew the same style in mangalgiri cotton and i don want to through the border. Thanks in advance.

  7. love your tut! Hope to find a shift pattern to try it out soon. Thanks a bunch.

  8. Hello,

    I would like to contact you. Please contact me through this mail id at the earliest.

    Thank you.

    Awaiting your reply.

  9. Hello Anonymous,

    I wonder how do i contact an anonymous person without displaying any id. Please check my profile and mail me in case you would like to contact me. May i know what is it regarding?

  10. hi...its very useful 4 me....tnx a lot..

  11. could u plz post skirts cut like tat..i need drafting....or suggest me 1 gud drafting book

  12. Thanks Pratheksha. I hope my tutorials are clear and useful. Will try to post fish cut skirt draft soon.

    Please refer my to Shelfari Bookshelf on my sidebar to know the pattern making books i read and use.

  13. Hey,
    Great tutorial!

    I am new to Bangalore and I am wondering where I can find pattern drafting paper (preferably on a roll). Newspaper is fine for smaller silhouettes, but not too practical if you want to create something with a lot of drape and volume. Do let me know if you have an idea...Thanks!!

  14. Thanks Amrita.

    Regarding Pattern Drafting paper, i am searching for that in chennai too. i guess i can't give much info on that for you. If you happen to get some info on this, please pass it on to me.

    Anyone has any info on where i can get broad width long rolls of pattern drafting paper. please let me know

  15. Hey,
    Thank you for your reply...I might order from China :(.

    I heard that the drafting paper that architects use is similar, I believe its called Gateway. I have yet to go look for this though.


  16. Thanks this is a great-looking pattern. By the way- I use doctor's office paper- the stuff you sit on and comes in rolls.

  17. AWESOME...........

  18. j'aimerai profiter de ce modèle masi je ne sais pas comment faire, merci de votre aide.


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