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Nov 7, 2011

Saree Blouse - Bust Darts - Measurements

I had received mail from one of the readers with this query
how to measure  dart for saree blouse for  ripcage?For eg:this is my bust size. ~bust40 w. 34 ~ H.42~ back waist length  is 16.5 .can you s how me hoe get the bust dart please 

Thought of sharing it on the Adithis Amma Sews as it will help other readers as well

the things we need to know while marking out darts on front of the blouse are 

Main darts  width (center dart width)
Armhole dart measurements
Buttonside dart measurements

Let us first discuss about main darts

 Now let us see the armhole darts,

Now let us see the Button side darts,

For this reader based on her bust size (40 inches)
the dart measurements would be as follows

Center dart
X-O = 3.5inches
A-B= 3.0 inches
O-C = 3.0 inches

Armhole Dart
M-N= 1 inch
Length of armhole dart = 4.5 inches
Between C & L distance should be 2.5 inches

Button side dart 
Length = 2.5 inches
width = 1 inch (E-F)

Stitch the dart lines as straight lines to get perfect shape. Too much space between C & L will not give a perfect bust mound shape, so take care , make a test fit and alter measurements a little bit  by 1/4 inch give or take depending on your custom fit. 

Hope this post was of help to the reader. 

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  1. Great Post..... I've never tried Blouse stitching, after this post I believe I can give it a trial.

  2. Adithis amma , many.. many thanks for you for taking time. This is good enough for me to finish my blouse.Dear Adithis thank you again.I like your little angle's Navarathiri's pavadai& blouse, she is very beautiful.vijayw.

  3. I want to make one using your instructions before you come!:D let's see..;)

  4. Hope this tutorial was of help to all of you, thanks

  5. helo aditi amma. Thanks for your posts. I am learning blouse stitching at home and referring your all post for blouses.

    Here, I am getting problem in calculation. please help me and guide me as a beginner.
    Bust round and bust size is same?

    if same : X-O = 1/12 bust round + 1 inch
    so, X-O = 1/12 of 40 + 1 = 4.3
    and you written X-O = 3.5 inches

    same kind of measurement difference on others

  6. hi
    very usefull blog
    i like it a lot...
    saw this blog and brought usha sewing machine :)
    i have a blog on simple recepies .....

  7. Adithis, can you teach me how todraft blouse pattern ?

  8. please tell me whether i should leave extra inches for
    darts while marking measurement.

  9. adithis amma, i like to learn pants draft and cutting , can you help me? please. vijay.wendt

  10. i think u cal culated x-o, o-c, a-b all wrong could u please explain? i am getting confused.

  11. I rechecked the draft and the formula calculations are correct and as mentioned in this post.

  12. Acc. to your formula x-o=4.3,o-c=2.8 while as per msmt given by you x-o=3.5,o-c=3.pls explain,how you got this figure?Eagerly waiting for your reply.

    1. X-o is 3.46 rounded off to 3.5
      O-c = x-o - 1/2 inch which is = 3.0
      A-b = o-c

      O-c has been mistyped and has been changed . The formula is right, use it according to your measurements

  13. Can your pls show tutorial of princess line cut blouse?As i tried many times but front bust part is flat its not forming the shape of cup.

  14. They're are already many tutorials online for drafting princess seams using normal darts . Please google


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