I had received mail from one of the readers with this query

how to measure dart for saree blouse for ripcage?For eg:this is my bust size. ~bust40 w. 34 ~ H.42~ back waist length is 16.5 .can you s how me hoe get the bust dart please

Thought of sharing it on the Adithis Amma Sews as it will help other readers as well

the things we need to know while marking out darts on front of the blouse are

Main darts width (center dart width)

Armhole dart measurements

Buttonside dart measurements

Let us first discuss about main darts

Now let us see the armhole darts,

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how to measure dart for saree blouse for ripcage?For eg:this is my bust size. ~bust40 w. 34 ~ H.42~ back waist length is 16.5 .can you s how me hoe get the bust dart please

Thought of sharing it on the Adithis Amma Sews as it will help other readers as well

the things we need to know while marking out darts on front of the blouse are

Main darts width (center dart width)

Armhole dart measurements

Buttonside dart measurements

Let us first discuss about main darts

Now let us see the armhole darts,

Now let us see the Button side darts,

For this reader based on her bust size (40 inches)

the dart measurements would be as follows

**Center dart**

X-O = 3.5inches

A-B= 3.0 inches

O-C = 3.0 inches

**Armhole Dart**

M-N= 1 inch

Length of armhole dart = 4.5 inches

Between C & L distance should be 2.5 inches

**Button side dart**

Length = 2.5 inches

width = 1 inch (E-F)

Stitch the dart lines as straight lines to get perfect shape. Too much space between C & L will not give a perfect bust mound shape, so take care , make a test fit and alter measurements a little bit by 1/4 inch give or take depending on your custom fit.

Hope this post was of help to the reader.

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Great Post..... I've never tried Blouse stitching, after this post I believe I can give it a trial.

ReplyDeleteAdithis amma , many.. many thanks for you for taking time. This is good enough for me to finish my blouse.Dear Adithis thank you again.I like your little angle's Navarathiri's pavadai& blouse, she is very beautiful.vijayw.

ReplyDeleteI want to make one using your instructions before you come!:D let's see..;)

ReplyDeleteHope this tutorial was of help to all of you, thanks

ReplyDeletehelo aditi amma. Thanks for your posts. I am learning blouse stitching at home and referring your all post for blouses.

ReplyDeleteHere, I am getting problem in calculation. please help me and guide me as a beginner.

e.g

Bust round and bust size is same?

if same : X-O = 1/12 bust round + 1 inch

so, X-O = 1/12 of 40 + 1 = 4.3

and you written X-O = 3.5 inches

same kind of measurement difference on others

hi

ReplyDeletevery usefull blog

i like it a lot...

saw this blog and brought usha sewing machine :)

i have a blog on simple recepies .....

http://www.indusladies.com/forums/blogs/mahiramki/

Adithis, can you teach me how todraft blouse pattern ?

ReplyDeleteplease tell me whether i should leave extra inches for

ReplyDeletedarts while marking measurement.

adithis amma, i like to learn pants draft and cutting , can you help me? please. vijay.wendt

ReplyDeletei think u cal culated x-o, o-c, a-b all wrong could u please explain? i am getting confused.

ReplyDeleteI rechecked the draft and the formula calculations are correct and as mentioned in this post.

ReplyDeleteAcc. to your formula x-o=4.3,o-c=2.8 while as per msmt given by you x-o=3.5,o-c=3.pls explain,how you got this figure?Eagerly waiting for your reply.

ReplyDeleteX-o is 3.46 rounded off to 3.5

DeleteO-c = x-o - 1/2 inch which is = 3.0

A-b = o-c

O-c has been mistyped and has been changed . The formula is right, use it according to your measurements

Can your pls show tutorial of princess line cut blouse?As i tried many times but front bust part is flat its not forming the shape of cup.

ReplyDeleteThey're are already many tutorials online for drafting princess seams using normal darts . Please google

ReplyDelete