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Jul 22, 2011

Dhoti Pant or Cowl Pant Tutorial

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Dear Readers,

Here is the Dhoti Pant / Dhoti Salwar / Cowl Pant tutorial as promised.

I have stitched this Dhoti Pant for my Daughter (4.5 yrs); and hence in the picture the tape measures will be relevant to her measurements. Please see the overview draft picture and register the draft with your measurements and then go to the fabric folding and cutting part.

For my Daughter these are measurements i have used

Seat round = 20 inches
inner leg seam length = 14 inches
Total crotch depth = 8 inches
Crotch depth on leg piece = 4.5 inches
waistband height = 3.5 inches + 1 1/4 inch
Waistband width = 24 + 1 inch for seam allowance; I have used single piece with one seam, using the seam joint as Center Back of waist band; you can have waistband in 2 pieces and hence will have 2 seams one each for center front & center back or you may even use them at sides.

Fabric required

For Adults - 2.5 to 3 metres of 44 inch width fabric
For kids - 1 - 1.5 metre of 22 inches of fabric width (44 inch may overwhelm tinty tots <= 6 years; above 7 you can try with full 44 inch width fabric)

Here is the Draft Overview, as to how it will look on paper, you do not need a paper draft for this, and can directly mark and cut in fabric, provided you following the folding and marking steps carefully.

Use an existing fitting pant to know the depth of the crotch and inner leg seam

Fabric width required is 44 " for adults and 22" for kids half the width of fabric is what i have used for my daughter, otherwise the entire width also can be used, but it will be too overwhelming for her slender frame.

 Please note the way fabric is to be folded, this is very important to get the right drape

Again on this folded fabric, lift from bottom corner and fold diagonally as shown in pic below

Now let us mark the leg opening,

Now let us mark the inner leg seam length along the selvage and open end side starting from point 3

Now mark the crotch depth from point 2  as 2-1 on the horizontal line  (Note the crotch depth is not entire crotch depth but entire crotch depth - waistband height)

Cut along 0-1-2-3-4; you will get 2 pieces of 0-1-2-3-4 with fold side bias on 0-4

Waistband measurements are as follows:
Length if it is single piece = Seat round  + 4 inches for ease
Length if there are 2 pieces = (Seat Round / 2) + 4 inches for ease

Height = 6.5 - 7 inches for Adults is normal measure; use your base measurements from fitting pants.

I have taken 3.5 inches for my DD who is 4.5 yrs old

Prepare the waistband by finishing the seams ; I have taken a single lengthy piece to cover seat round + 4 inches, in case you have 2 pieces then join both the seams;

Stitch Crotch seams of leg peices together

Finish the Leg opening by using bias strip facing as show below

The leg pieces when joined at crotch and with finished leg opening should look like this

Now let us join leg pieces to waistband. Please note the pleating procedure carefully as that determines the fall of drape.

Pin Wasitband joint seam to the Joined crotch seam. I am using the waistband as single piece with one seam and using it as center back, if you have 2 seams then you can either use the seams as center front and center back respectively. 

Pin the 0 point of leg piece to the side notch of the waistband

Pleat depth i have used is 1 inch knite pleat (2 inches in total depth for each pleat) for child
For Adults you can have 2 - 2.5 inch pleats depending on width of fabric you have (4 -5 inch of total pleat depth for each pleat)

Now start making pleats and pin them towards the crotch seam end , i.e., to the left of point 0. the pleats should end approx 1 1/4 inches before point 0 (2.5 inches in case of adults)

From point 0 , towards it right side the pleats should be in the opposite direction  starting from 2.5 inches from point 0 and going till the crotch seam.

Now lets work on the other leg piece. Pin the other crotch seam to center front of waistband and also pin point 0 on to the notch on the other side of waist band

Stitch the pleats in place; now that we have joined the waistband and leg piece together. Fold the waistband by 1/2 inch and fold 1/4 inch from top of fold to complete the waistband casing closure. You add tiestrings or elastic closure as desired. I have used elastic for the child; but on the Dhoti pant / Cowl pant made for self i have used fabric string closure ; for fabric string closure, leave a 3/8 opening at center front of waistband at the casing.

Now stitch the inner leg seams.

Click Here to Pin This to Pinterest Pin It

My Dhoti Pants - Grown up version; to view more snaps and details please click HERE

Did you find this tutorial helpful, useful, do you find any issues in using it, any doubts, happy with it, not quite, whatever it is, please do respond with your comments. I will surely reply back in case you need some clarification.

This TUTORIAL has been LINKED UP in all these Linky Parties - Click HERE



  1. these are super cool, no kidding! I want to make a pair so bad now! thanks! and the symbols and signs, I gathered them form the net... practically you can copy/paste anything you see on my blog or on pages like this 【ツ】

  2. Looks super cool..loved this post so much ...u are so creative:-)
    Do enter my blogs first giveaway here

  3. Hi,

    Cool tutorial and pants in one of my favorite colors.
    I don't know if you remember it, but about 2 decades ago this pant was in fashion in Chennai. I had couple of pairs of these pants and I would wear them every day. The only difference is that the leg opening then was vertical/diagonal. You had a "V" shape over the ankle bone.

    Since you are asking for suggestions, I have one for you. Will it be possible for you to change the settings on your pictures so that they can be enlarged.

    Anyway, as I said before great tutorial and keep up the good work. Also, if possible please visit my blog


  4. Thanks Lipsy

    Thanks Saliha,

    what a coincidence, yesterday my hubby was discussing about the dhoti pants and bell bottoms being in vogue some 2 decades back. Wow! this is some kind of 'blogopathy' connect between us. Keep it going!

    as of me, even say 4 years back, before i delivered my little princess, i wasn't much into fashion and roamed around like a geek! The transformation i have gone through every since her entry into my life has been phenomenal, will do a post on that, as i don't want to fill up all the comments section!

  5. @Saliha
    I have made the pictures X-large size. hope they are more visible and clear now.

  6. Hi,
    Thank you so much. Most of the time, I read at night on the phone, after the kids go to bed, it really helps when the pictures are larger or the author has enabled them to be enlarged.

    Also I'm teaching myself to draft using these books Don McCunn's "How to make sewing patterns" and Pamela S Stringers "Pattern Drafting for Dress Making". Do you know of any other book that would be helpful?

    I am definitely going to make these pants, will post pictures of them and send you a link.

  7. Thank you for the tutorial. I love the pants.
    New follower from boost your blog Friday.
    Hope you follow back.

  8. I'm your newest follower from the hop:) check me out at whenever you can

  9. @Saliha
    Thanks Saliha. I started learning using the book Pattern Making for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. Once you get basic bodice and skirt drafted along with basic trouser draft. There is no limit to variations one can try. All the very best.

  10. @Grandma Bonnie
    Hug a Tree - So Green. I would love to go green and am following you back.

  11. @magdamagda
    Thanks Magda, you are such a sweetie who always leaves comments. Thanks

  12. @CreativeMama
    Hug a Tree sorry i misplaced the reply to Grandma Bonnie.

    So here i am rectifying my mistake.

    Thank you Hug a Tree & Grandma Bonnie for following Adithis Amma Sews

  13. Like your blog and information. I am a new follower and would love if you'd come by and follow back.
    Cher Sunray Gardens

  14. its very useful thank u sis...

  15. Welcome Viji & Thendral. Hoping to see your cowl pants soon.

  16. ya sure akka...i gonna stitch 4 self

  17. Wow, those are gorgeous! The pants really turned out well! They seem like they would be very comfortable? I might have to try it...

  18. @Rochelle
    Thanks. Sure go ahead and try them, they are quite simple to make.

  19. Hi - I'm trying to buy a copy of the patternmaking book you mentioned here. However, when I try ordering on Flipkart, I saw two versions - one which is about Rs.700 and the other for over Rs.4500/-. They both say they're about 828 pages (and I have a copy from the library that is about that long). So do you know if there's a version I should get??


  20. I'm so honored that you chose to join the Creative Bloggers' Party & Hop. Thank you for adding this special masterpiece to rock my party :)

  21. @Devi
    Pattern Making for fashion Design by Helen Armstrong - 4th Edition is what i have, i got it for about 699 i think.

  22. @SJ @ Homemaker On A Dime
    I am thrilled to join you to be your co-host, looking forward to it.

  23. My daughters would totally love this!! :-)

  24. Great tutorial! I am trying to draft my own pattern to my measurements and was wondering if you could describe in further detail the making of the waistband. Exactly what measurement would be the "seat round"?

  25. Thanks Jessikissica,

    Seat round = measure around your widest part of your hip or buttocks

  26. Thank u so much for this tutorial.......(*_*)

  27. I like ur blog .Thank u so much Lakshmi for this tutorial.I made this one for my sister.Here is the link.

  28. Thanks Trupthi.

    Thanks Sunitha.I checked your Dhoti pants, they are so cool. Glad my tutorial was of help to you.

  29. MashaAllah.. very nice tutorial.. I have just learned tailoring and this is very new experience and m loving it... :)... i have been looking for dhoti shalwar drafting with measurement since long and finally thx to u that i came across this site.. thx u sooooo much.....

  30. MashaAllah.. very nice tutorial... gr888 work.... neat; clean & clear measurements with note... THQ U SOO MUCH....

  31. can u plz let me knw hw did u take plates fr adults... The cloth is veryyyy big... i took plates but still some cloth is left... can u plz let me knw hw did u take plates??

  32. Like your blog and information. Thanks for sharing.
    I am a new follower and would love if you'd come by and follow back.

  33. Thank you very much for this tutorial! Last year I visited India and purchased some beautiful fabric! Maybe I should try this dhoti tutorial! You have a wonderful blog! Kind ragards from Germany!

  34. Loved the detailed tutorial, very well explained,thank you so much,waiting to try this now

  35. hi!! i loved the dhotti pant tutorial.... i will definately try to make out this one.... thanks dear...

  36. Hi,

    Can you kindly guide me to understand ; how to take the measurement the inner leg length for adults or what is the calculation for the same..

  37. hi, thank u very much for teaching teq. of dhoti. very kind of u .by puting this blog u r helpful to so many like us again thanks a lot.


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