Saree Blouse Pattern Draft 1 - Enjoy

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Saree Blouse Pattern Draft

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I am working on Saree Blouse draft, i have 2 versions of it, of which i am sharing one version which my dear Friend Vidhya  (She has taken a break from blogging due to personal reasons ...) generously drafted and scanned and sent it across for me, i am kind of busy with Deepavali + DD's Birthday preparations (read : shopping , shopping & shopping)

This draft though did not give me exact fit (but it has for her, so if you have proportionate body then it works, mine is petite so i always worth with the other draft, which i am yet to scan, will post it soon)
Try the above draft with cheap cloth or muslin, check fit, make necessary alterations and try it with fashion fabric.

For those of you who do are not aware of how to sew a blouse, fret not, here is the Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction
i will sew atleast 2 blouses this weekend for my Deepavali collection (one for sis , talking about my sister, she suffers from acid reflux disease, does anyone know cure for it, as in what diet helps;  one blouse for self hopefully) so will do a picture tutorial on the sewing part alongside it....


Have finished Pattu Paavadai & Sattai , will post it along with Draft 2moro hopefully,

The past 3-4 days did not have much of 'Blogosphere' time for me, trust me i will compensate more than enough with Blouse and Pattu Paavadai Sattai Draft to name a few

Please do leave feedback, tutorials take lot of time to make, so your feedback is the tonic / motivation to do it.... 

Cut Choli Blouse (Saree Blouse with 3 darts) Draft

Saree Blouse - Back Draft

Saree Blouse Front Draft

Note: the points 23 - 24 is for hook extension and have been wrongly placed on side seam, it should rather be on neck side or can be omitted and a separate piece can be used as shown in Saree Blouse Sewing Tutorial

Note First line is a typo error, it should be 15 instead of 14! Thanks Betsy for pointing it out!

SLEEVE DRAFT

Add SEAM Allowances to all the above drafts as desired

PLEASE NOTE THE ALTERATION PAGE 

Note in the box in the Alteration page below, there is a typo error: it should be 1/3 bust and NOT 1/2 bust as is written there. Thanks Thendral for raising the doubt... 

Also make note of few alterations you can try ... in case the draft requires any alterations for you.... especially if you have broad shoulder & narrow bust or vice-versa... Check Saree Blouse Draft Tweaks & Tricks post for further details

Best of luck, do give the feedback as to if this draft worked for you, in any case i will be uploading Draft 2 later, Draft 2 is the one i use (it fits & works for my sister, MIL, mom & self ...so it all runs in the family ...) 

Once you ready with the pattern draft, check out Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction and make yourself a Saree Blouse... take care...

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Dazzling Deepavali Dresses - Pattu Paavadai

Pattu Paavadai Skirt portion is completed. Need to attach bodice to it, yet, having severe migraine, shall post the drafting and sewing tutorial in the next few days ...

thought of sharing this WIP before i black myself out ... migraine kind of kills.... 1 day gone waste as it hinders my concentration hence preventing me from doing anything productive....

BTW saree blouse draft ready, need to scan and shall post it soon ....

1001 hits for the day & still counting ....

someone please pinch me... when i first started this blog and in between took a sabbatical, little did i realize that one i will make a comeback (which i did since last october ... with regular posts) and have a page hit count of more than 1000 on a single day... Matter of fact i did just that today... thank you god...

i started this blog to share my sewing experiences and to learn in the process .... as they say, you learn more as you teach, i started drafting tutorials and in the process learnt a lot and rectified a lot of mistakes, and top it all, made someone's day by helping them out in the little way that i can...

The CraftGossip featured my Angrakha Tutorial today and that got me quite a few hits today... thanks!

Today has given me a morale booster and i wow to share all my designs, ideas and tutorials as much as i can with the spare time i get after finishing my domestic & personal responsibilities...

mostly i blog late into the night after having put my Darling daughter to sleep and used to wonder if that was all worth it, losing out few hours of sleep every day, but today I got the affirmation that it is all worth it, every minute spent...

Thanks to all my followers as well who motivate me, seriously when i see that so many people are actually out there following what i post, it urges me to do better (Typical LEO trait isn't it, craving for attention!)

Having said that 'LEO' trait, i miss out on one thing though and it baffles me, even after more than 1000 hits there was not a single comment added (from the ones that was done yesterday), why don't people post a comment on any article which they found useful, i do make it a point to say at least short little comment to motivate the writer to whichever blog i visit.... isn't it a simple thing to do, the least one can do when they put to use someone's knowledge tid bits.... i wonder why there aren't as many comments as page hits...

I also take this opportunity to solicit feedback on what you REALLY feel about adithisammasews, its progress so far, what would you like to see in future, bouquets, brickbats are most welcome....

Take care, and THANKS.....

Update: 
Regarding Dazzling Deepavali Dresses, my Mom's Silk Blouse has been finished... good news for you folks, is i am fine tuning the blouse draft and shall share it with you all soon...


My DD's Pattu Paavadai (Skirt portion finished, Top to be done tomorrow); hereagain i am doing a picture tutorial of how to sew it, will post it along with the draft pictures at the earliest possible, max by weekend...

Dazzling Deepavali - Shopping Part I

The last weekend was dedicated to Deepavali Shopping, though it was tiring, it was fun as well.

Purchased lot of fabrics from Thakurdas Choithram (my fav fabric shop in town) on Saturday and had loads of chat at Gangotree to rejuvenate myself for more shopping on Sunday as well

On Sunday did some shopping for Sarees & Pattu Paavadai Material from RMKV Chennai.

Here is a glimpse of few of those in my stash now, being given special attention for Deepavali ofcourse....

Saree for MIL which is searched with the scrap bit fabric of the material left after finish her blouse... first time i searched for Saree  with a ready blouse to match for... it was exciting

Pallu of MIL's Saree

Kora Saree for Sister (she got one more, will post it later!)

Mom's Silk Blouse which is my Current WIP

Pattu Paavadai for Darling Daughter, 

Will try to do a tute on how to make Pattu Paavadai as i cut & sew this, as it may be a while before i sew another Pattu Paavadai set; why 'coz she already has 2 other new ones (courtesy: Navarathri) and wears it only on festivals or weddings so... they will only be sitting idle in her wardrobe, so no more Pattu Paavadais till she outgrows them... and did you have a look at the Sneak Peak of Tutorials planned, do vote for your choice.The poll is on my sidebar at the top and is open until Deepavali.

Few of the fabrics (Believe me i have got loads of them, will share  it later as busy with Deepavali right now). BTW these fabrics except for green brocade are the ones i plan to use for making the special birthday ball gown for my DD on her b'day which also falls on Deepvaali  day....

The blouse for MIL's saree was finished sometime in September, 

I actually have a story to tell as to how i got the saree for this blouse... 

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Sneak peak on tutorials planned

Sneak peak regarding blog updates - my list of tutorials in the pipeline

1. Anarkali kameez (once demystified it is actually very simple, plan to post it before Diwali itself, lets see....)
2. Pleated Cowl neck
3. Butterick walk away dress knock-off
4. Basic skirt (I am planning to get back to wearing skirts.... yay.... so join me, have fun)                Skirt Variations (once basic skirt is done, don't want to do designer knock-offs!)

So do you gals (well guys! for those of you who happen to read this, since most of my followers are womenfolk) have any preference, any specific tutorial request gets voted, do let me know....

I have added a vote campaign for the tutorials planned, please voice your choice and vote,  the most voted will be work upon first...

Did some Deepavali shopping today, will do some more 2moro as well and post the snaps of entire purchase 2moro.... well.... lemoney shade is what i have in store for my DD's birthday this year which also falls on Deepavali... WOW time for double the celebration isn't it...its extra special.. so extra outfits not just any outfit but designer outfit,, so lots of work to do, do keep me posted on votes so that i can work on it after finishing Deepavali outfits.....

Happy Weekend....

Dazzling Deepavali ....

This weekend i will be busy shopping for Deepavali which falls on November 5. Deepavali is a festival celebrated by Indians all over the world, usering prosperity & well being, marking end of evil by good. Enough of my 'gyan' on 'Deepavali' or should i say 'Diwali' its more famous alias... just google it to get more detailed information on the festival.

As a kid i used to look forward to Deepavali every year for 3 reasons

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Straw Dome Cage Tutorial

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Actually have challenged my Sister to take better snaps, and she gave it a try, once she gives me latest snaps, i shall post them, till then bear with my amateur photography... 

(this one with its 3D appearance was really challenging to photograph and make it look like it would for the naked eye, believe me it looks even more beautiful to the naked eye with all those angles of the triangles....) Here are the pics taken by my sis

My DD liked the dome made by aunt when we visited her during the first week of October and has been pestering me to make her one.

My Aunt made hers' decades back and hence couldn't recollect exactly how it was done, so she gave me her piece and asked me to leisurely figure it out

I managed to figure it out yesterday, and wanted to store it as a tutorial for future reference... here it is... it took me 8 hours to make it (both yesterday & Today combined together...) and another hour to make this tutorial, so please do give your valuable feedback to motivate me for future endeavours.....

Do not get scared by the sheer hours put in, once you get the initial hang of it you will be able to complete the next sets of such domb cages even faster ....


Here we go, lets get started  with Tutorial


Materials required: 

• Straws ( I have used decorative Glass Straws, even thick plastic straws would work) 
• Craft wire (even twine thread of size 10 above would work)
• Needle to guide in between & push pin to push the non-cooperative wire to budge

Basket wire Birds  and other embellishments as desired; i have used crystal beads, 'ghunghroos' for bell sounds

Step 1 :  Make 2  Pentagons viz A & B

Step 2:  From each corner of the pentagon A make a triangle; Make 3 such layers i.e., from each corner there will be 3 triangles each layered

Step 3: From each end point of basic straws in the pentagon A, string a straw and join all 5 straws forming a dome

Step 4: From each corner of the Pentagon B make a triangle; Make 2 such layers i.e., from each corner there will be 2 triangles each layered

Step 3: From each end point of basic straws in the pentagon B, string a straw and join all 5 straws forming a dome

Now comes the tricky point i will explain it by words accompanied by photo graphs, if it is still not clear then will draw an instructive diagram and get it scanned tomorrow and update it for sure... please give feedback if this step is clear or not.

Step 4 : Join the Pinnacle Point of the triangle (Layer 3 only) of Pentagon A, to the Dome Center point of Pentagon A, by using a straw; repeat the same for every Triangle's Pinnacle point (Layer 3 only) of Pentagon A

Step 5:  Join the Pinnacle point of the triangle (Layer 1 only) of  Pentagon B, to the Dome center point of Pentagon B, by using a straw, repeat the same for every Triangle pinnacle point (Layer 1 only) of Pentagon B

Now comes even more trickier point....Joining the 2 pentagons together...

Pentagon A will form the bottom half and Pentagon B will form the top half

Step 6: Place the Pinnacle point (Layer 1) of Pentagon A to the corner points of Pentagon B; 5 triangle's pinnacle point (Remember of Layer 1) of Pentagon A will meet the 5 corners of Pentagon B. String through the straws and secure them
PURPOSEFULLY DID NOT ADD THE PICTURE AS IT IS MORE CONFUSING WITH PICTURE WITH ALL ANGLES OF TRIANGLES, just follow the instruction of the above step by visualization, you will be through, trust me....!!!

Step 7: Now Layer 2 of Pentagon A and Layer 2 of Pentagon B are hanging insecurely and we need to give them support, so add a straw to the pinnacle point of Triangle (Layer 2) in Pentagon A and join the other end of the straw with corner of Pentagon B.

The below pic shown have straws (red color) have been added to secure the pinnacle points of triangle to corner points of pentagon. I did it in red color to show how it is done, the end result i have used fully green straws, for your clarity i made this step with red color straw and later replaced it with green 

Step 8: Repeat the above step for all 5 triangles (Layer 2) in Pentagon A

Step 9: Now Layer 2 Triangles of Pentagon B have to be secured, so add a straw to Pinnacle point of each triangle, connect the other end of the straw to the corner point of Pentagon A which is below. Repeat the same for all 5 triangles (Layer 2) of Pentagon B

Ta da... the straw dome cage is ready...

Now cut small strips of straw and add to all possible pinnnacle points as you like and hang a bird at its end...

Embellish as you wish, i have added crystal bead at every junction of triangles 

Do not forget to add a bird within the dome in the hollow center that gets formed. and also at the lower half i.e., the dome center point of Pentagon A

I  have used 3 different colors of birds to enhance the effect. Play around and get the effect you are looking for, you can even add windchime bars at the bottom of each bird, i have added 'ghungroos' (Salangai) underneath 2 center birds... to give soothing bell sound as the birds wave around with the breeze....

This looks a complicated procedure to start with, but believe me, it is far more easy once you get the hang of it. Try it, please do keep me posted , if you liked it, i had spent more than 8 hours making this and more than an hour drafting this tutorial, so please give some feedback and also feel free to clarify your doubts if any.....

Give it a try and keep me posted on your finished products....

Check out here for more Tutorials  on sewing & crafts

I Chose to link this project up at various Linky Parties

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Drape Skirt with Godet at Back

Action Shots of Dress no.8 of Navarathri Collection.... she wore it today, not so impressive snaps as she was in a hurry to go out and play.... no compromises during playtime...

Navarathri 2010 = 9 new dresses - Completed!

Dress No.7 & 8 have been added and dress no.9 magically made it to official Navarathri 2010 collection. Check them out at the end of the post as the dresses are arranged in chronological order. For those who are following the Navarathri 2010 collection, this post may look repetitive, hence the above clarification.


Posting this to give the first look of the Complete Navarathri 2010 Collection - 9 New Dresses.... Someone pinch me.... am i dreaming.... no.... i am living my dream .....


Dress No. 1 : Silk Paavadai and Sattai (Skirt and Top)

Traditional clothing worn by kids during festivities is appropriate as the starter for the festivities of Navarathri, a 9 day festival wherein houses are decked with dolls prettily arranged on 9 steps ( or 7 or 5 or 3, at my place it is 7 steps) & puja is done daily, the festivities gets concluded on the 10th Day being Vijayadasami

More on Navarathri to be followed up in coming days, as of now have a look at Dress No.1

Dress No.2 - Cowl neck frock

Design delivered; Mission Accomplished - that's how i would like to put it for this outfit, with house under renovation, i couldn't use my sewing machine, but it gave me time to think before sewing and it helped, manipulated and figured out this cowl neck design which i guess is some pattern commercially available elsewhere, i don't any commercial patterns here in India, and hence draft my own, in fact enjoy doing the drafting.

View of the Front without the Ribbon Belt with flower embellishment

In fact i plan to do 2 more belts using the following trims, even if doesn't match this dress, it also be worn with something else isn't it!

Have a look at the cowl, this is as close as i can get!!!

back view with invizible zipper

Dress if fully lined and here is the reverse side of it - Front

Back view of the Lining

This pattern is special as it turned out exactly how i had envisioned and in fact much better than the design inspiration that i saw, if i can say so... sorry don't have any image or link of the design inspiration, but if you google cowl neck + kids frock, i guess you can find it.

One more reason for this dress to be special is due to the fact that this is my first attempt at draping for any of my DD's dresses,

Too tired to type anything more, house is being cleaned up after renovation and still have lots of cleaning to do tomorrow and also plan to wrap up dress 3, whose design has been envisioned! it's going to be balloon effect dress, still not sure if it will be waist up balloon skirt & top or a Balloon dress, watch out...keep giving your suggestions and feedback. They are highly appreciated.

Dress No: 3 - Yet to be named. Please suggest one.

Pouch Effect and how it is attached to lining underneath, everything is the same as balloon effect, but without gathers, hence the difference

Back View of the dress with inzide zipper, Thank god i sat down and added those kundan stones before finishing the front bodice, otherwise it would have looked too plain, isn't it? 

I wanted to make one balloon or bubble dress keeping this fabric in mind, but i forgot that i only had 1/2 yard of white unexplainable fabric, i really don't know what it is called, it has sunburst like pleat texture throughout. Though i followed the method to create baloon effect i ended up with only having pouch effect, but like the dress though it may not match with what i wanted in first place. 

The brocade fabric is actually leftover from my custom made Saree & blouse, which i haven't posted yet, hope to post it when i wear it match match with my DD during Navarathri.

For the next dress i am planning to use one reversible silk fabric i got from Mysore last year. one side is charcoal black and another side is pink, one side is soft in texture and another side is bit rough, any suggestions for the dress design. ... 

Dress No.4 & 5 - Reversible Wrap Around Dress

This dress is being counted as 2 dresses as it is reversible... (cheating...yes kind of, keep this in reserve, and if i manage to make one more extra dress to make real  distinct count to 9 in total, then i shall consider this to be as one dress no.4 ..is it OK)

Dress No. 6 - Pennyless Balloon dress (meaning... did not spend a rupee on the fabric... bodice fabric is leftover from my SIL's Ruffle Dress - remember;; Skirt portion was saree blouse material given by my Aunt to sew something adorable for her loving granddaughter ... my DD)

Balloon dress has been on my mind for a week now and after that failed attempt at balloon skirt due to lack of fabric for Dress no.3, i decided to make one.... since the blouse material was just 1 metre, i had to use some other fabric for bodice section...and searched through my leftover stash and found this chocolate brown satin lying around...

Since the bodice material was plain, decided to use some 'gyan' given in Art of Manipulating Fabric, this is a must have book for every Sewista! Seriously this is such a treasure trove...thank you little sister, for having gifted me this book...i never get tired of this book.

I used the Shirring process - waves shirring was the one i chose, but possibly i got the template wrong and hence the waves were not deep and didn't get the exact result as given in book, but i quite loved the result if got... then continued to do meandering shirring...on top of it and viola i absolutely loved what i saw!!!!

Front View  - I love it!

Back side has a little glitch, did you notice the waist seam has little bit of bodice fabric pinched in, on the right hand side... but alas i saw it only after taking the picture and since this is a fully lined dress with all hidden seams and a balloon skirt so everything was closed underneath, and i didn't feel like opening any of the seams, the chocolate brown color saved me and it is oddly visible to naked eye.

book reference...and my shirred piece....

I also made a quick fire pillow cover for my DD's pillow... no big deal i understand... Sharing it JLT!!!

Dress No.7 - Skirt & Top


Out of this entire Navarathri 2010 collection, this happens to be first skirt N Top! 

FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

Skirt Features:

• Back Vent Pleats for ease of movement 
• Vertical Flounce at front 

Top Features

• Flounce added from sleeves, down the way to the side seams
• Embellished trim to give mock wrap effect.

Dress No. 8 - Post-Deadline Dress

As i made this after Navarathri (2 days since Vijayadasami)... machine repair, no time etc are the excuses, but better late than never isn't it.

• Skirt has draped layer at front with semi-circular godet vent at back.
• Top is Simple with border straps

Dress No. 9 - Maroon & Gold Pattu Paavadai & Sattai + Potli Bag !
This dress though made even before Navarathri Collection began did not make it to initial list of Official Collection, cause the 'Pattu Paavdai' part was once worn, but the blouse was still new and my DD insisted on wearing it on Day 5, so it made it to Navarathri Collection

I chose to linkup this project at these Linky Parties as applicable !