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Sep 5, 2011

Sew Skirt September - Basic Skirt Sewing continued

Dear Readers,

Hope you have checked out the Drafting Tutorial for Basic Skirt, Now let us see the Sewing Part of Basic Skirt / Straight Skirt! 

Hail Skirts this September! yay!

I would like to mention one thing here - I will not be delving deep into the details of certain steps like attaching a zipper and adding pleats to vent as there are already crystal clear tutorials for them! We have lots of unknown details to visit don't we, so lets concentrate on them, which will help us draft and sew many styles of skirts this September!. 

First lets sneak peak at what are going to make, have a look at basic skirt i have made for self!

Lets get started 

Step 1 : Cut the Skirt pieces

Step 2: Waistband

Height - 1 - 2 inches max as desired

Length :
Waistband for front measuring exactly the same amount as skirt front waist arc (after deducting darts!)
Waistband for back measuring Skirt Back wasit arc (Deducting darts) + 1 inch for closure extension

Note: If you are planning to have opening at sideseam (if prefer not to as at hip curve bulge will expose zipper and it is better placed at CB), then you can have back wasitband as 1 piece itself

If you are planning to have opening at CB (i did!) then you need to cut 2 back waist band into 2 pieces such that 1 piece is 1 inch longer than the other!

Step 3: Interface the waistband ( i have used  1 inch stiff interfacing) and join seams, press open the seams

Step 4: Stitch the darts at Skirt Front & Back

Step 5: Preparing the Vent piece. I like my skirts to be modest for a mature woman like me who drops and picks up her daughter from school, so always add vent pleats at back for straight skirts like the basic skirt or even pencil skirt to allow ease of movement and at the same time ensure modesty!

Have shared photos of it when i added the vent, for your extra reference , here is the Vent Pleat tutorial i learnt this from, this will surely help you add Pleats to your Skirt vents!

Pressed Pleats

Similarly pin and stitch vent to the other half of back skirt

Press the Vent Pleats back in place

This is how it will look like from the RS of the back skirt

Step 6: Once Pleats are added, then stitch the Center Back seam from Zipper end position till the Vent position mark.
Note :  Please see that it is not from CB notch the CB seam is stitched as mentioned in picture, but from end of zipper to beginning of vent pleat attachment at CB

Step 7: Stitch the vents in place as an inverted V on top of them 
On the RS of skirt back top-stitch an inverted V at the top of the Vent pleat as shown below

Step 8: Add Zipper to CB opening; I have used normal zipper here (ran out of invisible zippers he he!; need to restock them!) Open up the Zipper by pulling the zipper pull. First pin RS of Zipper to the RS fabric of skirt (Right side portion of Back Skirt!) such that Zip teeth matches with CB Notch, stitch in place. Edge stitch on RS of Skirt

Then Pin RS of the other side of Zipper to the RS fabric of skirt (Left side portion of back skirt!) such that Zip teeth is about 3/8 inch away from CB seam. Stitch in place and make a top-stitch 1/2 inch from CB Seam and then at zip end point stitch a horizontal line , so the top stitch forms the shape of 'L'

Here is a link to one zipper tutorial using normal zipper, there are various ways of doing it, i have done it using one method, the link shows another way (which i used to do earlier! as a beginner) here again just google to find the one which suits you, i am just sharing what caught my eye!

Step 8: Stitch the side seams ; (no picture needed for this, isn't it!)

Step 9: Attach waist band to the Skirt. Remember the Back waist band with extension should be on the Right half of the Back Skirt  and the one without the extension should be on the Left Half of the back skirt. Add closure at end of waist band as desired, i have added normal hoop and thread loop closures as used in saree blouse! the Loops are added at the extension exactly at 1/8 to right of CB notch and hooks added at 3/8 from CB on the WB piece without extension

Forgot to take picture of this, no probs, here is a link for your reference, you can just google and get umpteen options, just choose one which suits you best !

Step 10: Finish Hem (I have used 2 inch Hem to give couture finish!) 

Here is the finished Straight Skirt / Basic Skirt

Hope this tutorial helps you out in sewing up a straight skirt / basic skirt with vents at back! Did you like this tutorial, any doubts, please do leave your feedback in comment section! 

Also feel free to Pin this to Pinterest, share it on facebook, tweet it by using share buttons available at the end of the post. If you would like to share this with your blog readers, click on Create Link button at the end of the post, so that a back link for this tutorial will be created!

To view all Sew Skirt September Posts - Click HERE

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  1. also the waist band will have a better fit if you..

    go half inch above from edge and blend it with a french curve. it takes shape of natural human waist.


  2. what a great blog you have! your tutorials are so detailed. I will definitely join you in a month of skirt-making!

  3. I'm already enjoying your skirt tour so much!:) It's true I've never worn one since I moved out but then I rarely ever did! I hope next year I get back for a vacation and show you a few old skirts I've made! This one looks very practical,I've never wore something this length though- either kneelength or shorter or a lot more rarely maxis. I'm curious what's next, I'll surely step in with one of my own soon! Thanks for all the great details, I'll have another look tomorrow! And what a sunset!:)

  4. Thanks Purush, i will surely try out shaped waistband in next skirt.

    Alena, Thanks for the compliments and i am glad you are joining us for Sew Skirt September!

    Thanks Magda, I have never ever worn skirts above knee level, ever! and don't think so i ever will, so i will make skirts which i will be comfortable wearing! I enjoyed flaunting around in this skirt and itching to make more! Eager to see your skirt collection and also what you are going to make during the SSS.

    Thanks Uma, i hope to see your skirts this SSS

  5. very nice and clear tutorial akka...

  6. Your skirt looks really good! Although it is not necessary to have a 2-pieced waistband for either a CB zip or a side seam zip either. I agree with Purush that a better fit can be obtained with as shaped waistband, and add that shaping can be added to a 1piece waistband by darting. It is a good idea when sewing a straight skirt in a patterned fabric to match the print at the CB seam.

  7. Thanks Vji

    Thanks Carolyn, i will try the darted single piece waistband soon. Print used in this skirt was too busy and eccentric, hence did not bother to match it with CB seam! but can't take that liberty with prints that will show! So will keep this tip in mind for future!

  8. It looks good. Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
    Always love your sweet comments on my blog:)
    Have a beautiful week!

  9. Thanks Sanghamitra

    Thanks Nisha. Will post your Tote as soon as i receive your postal address. Hope you like it.

  10. Such a beautiful your detailed tutorials! Thank you also....for inviting me to your Skirt September..... I love wearing skirts!

  11. Thanks Denise, i am glad you are part of our Sew Skirts September Celebration!


Your comments make my day! Thanks