Tutorial - Angrakha Pattern Drafting Part I

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Angrakha_Pattern_Drafting_Tutorial

Iam glad to have got back to posting tutorial. Please feel free to leave your feedback in comments so that it will help in iron out flaws if any and also make it better in future and also would motivate me to do share more of pattern drafting expeditions. In case if you any doubts, please raise the same and i would be glad to sort them out.

Today we shall see part I of Angrakha Tutorial. This would involve drafting the Angrakha part.

You will Need

• Shift Dress / Kameez Draft - as base
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Scissor
• Cellophane Tape
• Pattern Paper ( I normally use newspaper to draft patterns, RECYCLE!)

STEP 1: Trace the basic draft you have either Shift Dress / Kameez Draft with Paper on Fold

STEP 2 : Mark Bust Point

STEP 3: Mark 1 Inch from Bust Point (Approximately, depends on how curvy you are i am size 34 and it suits fine with me, increase or decrease  1 inch as required) from the Bust Point. Name it as B.

From HPS (See pic - High Position Shoulder point) mark a point perpendicular to Point B and name it as C

STEP 4: Draw the neckline for the angrakha from HPS to Point C and then finish the wrap seamline from C , crossing through point B upto Point D. 

P.S: Point D can be any distance as desired from the fold line 

Step 5:  To get the flared effect as the case is with the Angrakha i drafted for my sister, follow the steps 5, 6 & 7 or else you can retain the draft got from Step 4 as the Angrakha draft. 

(How to use it and sew with the base pattern and where to place ties we shall see in Part II of the tutorial)

Step 6: Cut along the slashed lines; Paste or anchor the pattern with Cellophane tape at HPS and spread the slashed lines to desired width,remember the flare fold will be half of what you get to spread, i.e., if you spread for 2 inches, then the flare will be 1 inch deep. Spread and paste to anchor it; do likewise for all slashed lines

Step 7:  Retrace the spread out pattern all through. 

P.S. Did you notice hemline is slightly longer than the actual slashed piece ends, this is to compensate for the folds that you end with somewhere at where the slash lines end. These folds will reduce the height a bit when they fold in, hence we add to the hemline as is required 

Now that we have the draft ready, how to integrate it with base draft and sew the same with ties will be dealt with in Part II, which i promise to post next week.  So please draft the same and keep it ready.

In case for those who can manage to sew yourselves, see below for steps to do

1. Cut 1 piece from the above drafter angrakha piece
2. Cut your front pieces and back pieces of the base pattern (Shift dress / kameez draft) as usual
3. Finish necklines; sew darts as is in base pattern
4. Attach Angrakha piece to front piece at shoulders with right side of front piece underlying the wrong side of angrakha piece (as you would for a mock-wrap dress)
5. Sew shoulders of front and back pieces together
6. Finish facings
7. Attach sleeves if you have them in your pattern or finish sleeveless draft (I have used  3/4 sleeve with a slit in my version)
8. Stitch side seams 
9. Finish with rolled hem 

If you find the above steps unclear or overwhelming, fret not i promise to deliver the acutal assembling part and sewing by next week. - Here it is: Angrakha Sewing Tutorial

Tomorrow is Gokulashtami (Birthday of Lord Krishna) and i have a busy day ahead as we have to prepare culniary delights to be presented to Lord. Hmm yummy seedai, murukku and so & so.... i am drooling. I also plan to dress up my daughter (as i do every year during Janmashtami aka Gokulashtami ), the past 3 years she has dressed up as Lord Krishna himself, this time let's see if she obliges....

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Discover a Blog with me ...

See what i stumbled upon as i was staring at my monitor right in the middle of the night it is 1:02 AM right now as i am typing this post....but well worth it as it made my browsing useful

Aha before you leave by clicking on the link.
P.S. Do come back tomorrow as i have planned a Tutorial on guess what.... (Yes Yes i can hear few grunts as for what happened to Patiala Part III the actual sewing part of it, please bear with me till i find the right fabric...)

Coming back to tomorrow's tutorial i will show you all as to how i drafted Angrakha Pattern... All you need would be one of the following

Kameez or Kurti Draft / Shift Dress Draft

SewAHolic

This blog is so useful. Happy Surfing.... 

Crafty Thursday

My daughter and myself had a crafty Thursday, yesterday ...

we made a Clown mask and a cone cap. she had her moments of fun and i had mine with Blood pressure fluctuations, what with glue, glitter, scissor all lying around so close to perturb my ease and calm...

but it was worth, for she was beaming with joy after completing her creation. I assisted her with sticking the conical cap together with cellotape and stapler and for attaching the ties to her mask. rest of it, she was happy to oblige and create on her own, with just one condition, i have to sit down next to her, till she completes...agreement was reached...

Going by how the day had started, i must say i am pretty pleased as to how it ended.

My MIL not in town, hence domestic responsibilities have added up and iam unable to devote as much time to my creative avenues, as would like to and normally do indulge in... she is back 2moro, hopefully i will complete the wrap around dress i had cut up for my SIL 3 days before, still not able to get back to it...as of now, here is a glimpse of WIP

Talking of my SILs (my hubby's cousins) they dropped in on Raksha Bandhan and tied Rakhi to their beloved brother. I initially thought of finishing the wrap around dress on time to given on that day, but it was not to be.

As i started to work on the wrap around dress, my machine somehow didn't sound all that well. On opening up the base of it, this is what i found..... exactly as i suspected, accumulated LINT.... it took me around 45 minutes to clean it up; i felt fatigued and irritated as it had delayed my WIP even further. but believe me it was well worth it as now machine is hale and healthy. Love you my darling machine, i can't even think of the day you may fall sick as i will follow suit as well so deeply troubled by your illnesss..... ha ha... no I AM SERIOUS, I love you my dear Sewing Machine...

SILHOUETTE MACHINE GUEST GIVEAWAY!!!!

SILHOUETTE MACHINE GUEST GIVEAWAY!!!!

Grosgrain fabulous is hosting a give away. This looks so useful. For all those enthusiastic craftsters out there, try your luck. So am I... best of luck...

So this week's discover a blog with me ought to be grosgrainfabulous.blogspot.com

Trims and whims.....

As i promised in my Angrakha post, welcome to my world of trims & fancies ....

Photos have been taken by my DD (note: she is 3.5 years old and promised me that my trims shall remain safe on one condition, she will be allowed to take the snaps, hence i had to oblige!)

More ..Pics ....

  

     

  My favorite are the diamond cut beads which i am holding in my palm 

More .... Pics...

All of them neatly packed ..they have a new home now.

All these black boxes contain beads...these were passed on to me by my Aunt who taught me sewing, she is my guide , philospher & friend.... Thank you Bedhi! 

Now Lets Move on to Lace Trims

All of them neatly well sort of neatly stacked onto their new home...

In the process look what i found... my daughter's first birthday's invite ..which i had saved to be kept safely as memorabilia,,, 

I guess you will tired by so many pics, please excuse, as i opened my pandora box of trims and fancy items, i just couldn't stop myself..... 

But i am not done yet, i still haven't shared the buttons, sequins and other fancy items, so here's a sneak peak of the jute box where i store them, hopefully will post them when i am not working on any outfit, like today.. till then breath easy .. ha ha... 

bye for now. ..good night and sleep tight if you share my timezone or else have a good day wherever you are reading this from ....

Parting Gift for my DD's Best Friend

My DD's dear friend who also shares the same name is leaving for US. My daughter has already started missing her. In the past 15 days or so, she came to our house and spent sometime together (as our house is near the school). we had been wanting to go to her place, but could make only yesterday.

Friday was her last day at school, so at last i sat down to make the dress. Circle skirt was once again the saviour and the bodice is also pretty plain, as the little girl is no fuss and doesn't like much embellishment unlike my DD and her friend. Just added the remaining trim, the last bit leftover after making 'Angrakha for my sister' to the neckline.

[I][U][B]Features:[/B][/U][/I]

[I]My Daughter's friend is very picky and choosy about dresses she wears, she wants it very comfort, minimal embellishment and very flowy.  Keeping this in mind, and short time i had (read 4 sewing hours) the following are the minimalistic features....more functional than ornamental ..[/I]

[LIST]
[*]Main feature is it is full lined with seams not showing in the lining as well (Sorry forgot to take the picture of reverse of the dress, i will be making a similar dress for my DD as well so shall post pic of reverse then)

[*]Removable belt (Thank god i made it removable, my DD"s friend did not like the belt and was comfortable without it, as the belt had flower embellishment and she hates flower embellishment, my DD on contrast loves embellishment, opposites attract i Guess...)

[*]Invisible zipper at back
[/LIST]

They had great fun together... she will be missed. wish her all the best and a bunch of new friends to wherever she is headed to in future and forever. .....

Angrakha - This time for my Sister.....

This is the outfit i managed to sew for my sister to wear on her best friend's engagement day.
Hope to make my Sister's own engagement dress soon ....

. 

Today was the engagement of  my sister's best friend from school. So i thought of making her a new outfit to glow in. The fabric is similar one which i had stitched Angrakha for my SIL

Since i had only a day (read 4 sewing hours to make do with) i decide to make Angrakha itself as the fabric drapes well for this style. But made slight changes in the drape.

Since my sister is slight built compared to my SIL, i had more fabric to play with, hence more drape on the wrap of the angrakha. One thing to try in next Angrakha (i want to make one for self, hopefully soon...) would be drape on the side where it wraps as well. Lets see, there's no end to experimenting....

The trim that is used here was bought for Rs.4 a mere and is worth every rupee spent on it. The trim inspired to work more with it than just as usual neck and sleeve embellishment, so started by placing it on the wrap of angrakha freehand, and let my mind waver here and there and ta da.... there is the result for you to see. I really like the effect, it adds jazz to the outfit but is defintely not over the top and that is what i call subtle elegance. 

The drape of wrap is on the side seam and the picture angle does not seem to get it right, will coax my little sister to wear it yet again and pose for it in all possible angles and shall make sure to update this post, only then will the drape of the wrap will get justified as most of my time drafting this outfit was spent on it......

Unfortunately the trim got almost over (used the pending last bit on my next project, will post it 2moro it is a memorabilia for my daughter's best friend who is leaving for US). So planning to rush to the same shop from where i got it and get loads of it. 

Speaking of trims, after getting the reload of it 2moro, i will share my khazana of Trims and fancy items which i plan to use for embellishment...... believe me they need a separate post and are well deserved one too ..... Watch out!

Thatha's Birthday = Handmade Card with Lots of Love!

My DD's artistic skills were at the fore yet again. This time it was a special handmade card for dear thatha (her grandfather). She was super excited and in fact get nagging me to sit down with her and complete it. She did all the stencil and coloring. All i did was paste the pop up section and write Happy Birthday as she is too young to write.....

Watch out artist at work ....

Here she is proudly displaying her work of art with lots of love....

Saree Recycle = Mosquito Cover Band + Pillow Case Style Dress + Iron Board Cover + Kitchen Cloth

My MIL gave me one of her saree which got torn while removing pin from the pleats.

She asked me to add border patti to the mosquito net using the saree border.

After doing so, there was still lot of fabric left. I used the Pallu of the saree to create a pillow case style dress for my DD.










Even after that there was bit of fabric. I had been wanting to give my iron board a new cover for a long time and ta da... this was it, stitch up a new cover using the remaining fabric. HaPublish Postve a look at Before and After and you can see SEA Change ...  :0)

There were still lit bits of fabric, patched them together as many layers and made few Kitchen cloth , dusting cloth etc..

A saree was reborn !!!! instead of going to trash.... I am proud to be a  craftster....